Natural Organic Gardening And Compost
When I first heard about natural organic gardening and compost it appealed to my Scottish nature – I could use all sorts of free recycled materials in my garden. Now it seems we can buy home composting bins costing up to $400! That doesn’t appeal to me as much.
Contrary to general belief, organic growing is not about composting, it is about ‘feeding the soil, not the plants” and compost rarely occurs in nature.
What does occur in nature is mulching, so the hayground organic gardening people have the right idea. If you have a large garden or are between a natural garden and farming you can even do your composting using hay bales as the walls of your stack.
Mulching in the home garden can be free with materials that don’t attract flies. All your lawn clippings and torn newspapers can be spread as mulch. I spread lawn clippings about 30cm deep, and they rot down to about 10cm after a few weeks, when I can add more lawn clippings.
Animal manures are the leftovers after the animal has removed the best nutrients from plants. If you spread hay as mulch, you will get all the nutrients, not just the leftovers in manure. When you pull out weeds, drop them between the plants as mulch. If the weeds are aggressive, make sure the roots are upwards, so that they won’t take root again.
Some authorities warn you that lawn clippings will form a mat impervious to water. I have not found it so, but if you do, just mix in some torn newspapers to aerate the lot. Some authorities warn you about causing a Nitrogen debt. The way this works is that when you put high carbon material into the soil, the bacteria grab nitrogen from the soil to help rot down the carbon, leaving less nitrogen for the plants.
This is only true if you dig the material into the soil – not if it lies on top as a mulch. For materials that are too nasty to use as a mulch, such as household scraps, animal manure and fish scraps from your fishing expeditions, you can make the worms do the work in a cheap worm farm.
Worms need humidity, darkness and plenty of vegetable matter, or they will go looking for a better place. They mostly prefer to stay in the top fifteen cm (6 in) of the waste, and they like a sprinkling of sand to use as grit to grind their food. It is up to your ingenuity to use materials that you have at home to give them what they need. Here are some ideas for a beginner to organic growing.
Take an old 200 litre drum with no top. Cut a 15 cm hole in the bottom. Support it off the ground on bricks. Cover the hole with heavy wire mesh (recycled shelf from an old over or fridge from the annual rubbish collection?) and start adding food scraps. Cover the bin with old carpet, sacking, carpet underlay, a sheet of tin, or anything else that will keep out the flies. Add torn up newspapers to absorb excess moisture from the food scraps. When the waste is about 15cm deep, buy 1000 worms from a worm farm (advertised under “worms” in the Yellow Pages) and add them to the scraps.
Don’t let it dry out, keep adding all your food scraps, and gather the worm casts that drop through the mesh at the bottom to put on your favorite plants. Every year or two you may manage to fill the drum in spite of the efforts of the worms, so just empty it, keeping the raw stuff at the top with all the worms to start again.
If you have larger quantities of waste (for instance if you live next door to a seafood processing plant) make a larger worm farm. Worms prefer not to drop through an airspace, so most worm farms should have a perforated base held off the soil. Use what you have at home, or can salvage from the annual rubbish collection. Old iron or asbestos sheeting, aluminum from old screen doors, or even old floor-boards can be used as a base.
Make sides about 20 cm (4 in) deep with available materials – old bricks or a wooden box would do for example. You also need a cover to keep out the light.
Start in one corner with your waste materials, wait a week for preliminary rotting and cooling, then add your worms. Plan to rotate the worms through eight areas in your worm farm, taking about three weeks per area. Each three weeks start filling a new area, taking up half the width of your farm, with scraps, and when you get back to the beginning again, you can dig out the finished worm casts in the first area and start again. Worms don’t like to compete with their hatching young, so they will move on to each new area that you fill.
The final method costs nothing and is for starting a new garden. Go to one end of the garden, and put down a layer of wet newspapers about 20 sheets deep, in a strip. Cover the strip with organic matter to about half a metre (20 in). Depending on where you are you can get free sawdust, human hair from hairdressers, lawn clippings, tree clippings, seaweed, clotted blood from abattoirs, animal manure, grape residues, spoiled hay or straw bales.
Anything that has lived before will do. Don’t forget to sprinkle on a few handfuls of dirt. The worms will work in the top 20cm (8 in), but the material will soon collapse so that the depth gets closer and closer to 20 cm and the worms have to move down.
Start another strip beside the first. When the fourth strip is complete, plant things in the first strip, and follow up your moving worm farm with your planting. If your layer of wet newspapers is thick enough this is supposed to smother even kikuyu grass.
Finally, some of your waste will be leafy tree branches. I throw these into a heap with some worms, and occasionally add lawn clippings. Every spring I empty the heap, and the branches that were too big to rot down go into my water heater. There is a big load of lovely compost there, with no work on my part – the worms do it all.
Don’t forget, mulch is better and cheaper than compost if the material is suitable for mulch. If you can get free spoiled hay, mulch with it, don’t compost. These are my opinions only, not necessarily those of natural organic gardening and compost enthusiasts or organizations, but my ideas are certainly cheaper.
Of course, if you are going to go for lawn natural gardening, you will want compost. But a lawn seems a waste of good space to me.
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organic gardening